Tag Archives: 19th-C Friendly

Suitable for seamsters wanting to make historically-accurate 19th century costumes.

Maline, Merveilleux and Messaline

Part of the ‘Antique Fabrics‘ series, this fabric isn’t necessarily extinct, but it was more popular in the past than the present. (I found so little on these three that I’m lumping ’em together – Ed.) Maline – gauze-like net of silk or cotton Merveilleux – a silk or silk/cotton mixture in a twill weave… Read More »

Mousseline

Part of the ‘Antique Fabrics‘ series. A 19th century term for muslin. I’ve run into it a lot in my late-19th/early-20th century catalog reproductions, usually when describing dainty blouses and dresses. Dainty was a very popular term in Gimbel’s 1915 catalog. Do not confuse it with mousseline de soie. I feel let down. I was… Read More »

Sicilienne

Part of the ‘Antique Fabrics‘ series, this fabric isn’t necessarily extinct, but it was more popular in the past than the present. A fine poplin with silk warp and cashmere filling. I spotted this one mentioned in the reprint of Bloomingdale’s 1886 catalog – some of their ladies’ dresses were available in sicilienne. It was considered… Read More »

Covert

Part of the ‘Antique Fabrics’ series, this fabric isn’t necessarily extinct, but it was more popular in the past than the present. AKA allsport. Covert is a durable heavy-weight tweed of regular or worsted wool, suitable for overcoats. It’s very hard-wearing and water-resistant. Covert coats are mentioned in 19th century catalogs as outdoor garments suitable for… Read More »

Butternut

Part of the Antique Fabrics series. A heavy woolen cloth, dyed brown with extracts from the butternut tree. If you want to play a Confederate soldier in the US Civil War, you’re going to learn a lot about butternut, as it was a widely-used homespun fabric used to replace official-issued uniform jackets and trousers as… Read More »

Tarlatan

Part of the ‘Antique Fabrics‘ series, this fabric isn’t necessarily extinct, but it was more popular in the past than the present. AKA Argentine cloth. Tarlatan is a lightweight open-weave fabric, a lot like cheesecloth or cotton gauze, but it’s stiffened with starch. It was used for dainty clothing items in the 19th century, and sometimes as an… Read More »

Cambric

Part of the ‘Antique Fabrics‘ series, this fabric isn’t necessarily extinct, but it was more popular in the past than the present. Cambric is a lightweight, densely-woven, plain-weave cloth. Originally made of linen, but later made of cotton as well. It’s name derives from Cambrai, France, where it was once made in significant quantities. Today, linen cambric is… Read More »

Percale

Part of the ‘Antique Fabrics‘ series, this fabric isn’t necessarily extinct, but it was more popular in the past than the present. A firm, plain-weave cotton fabric. Imported from India in the 17th & 18th centuries, then produced in France, thereafter. Thread count is usually 200 per inch or more. Percale uses long-staple cotton, resulting… Read More »

Peau-de-Soie

Part of the ‘Antique Fabrics‘ series, this fabric isn’t necessarily extinct, but it was more popular in the past than the present. AKA poult-de-soie, and paduasoy  A fine-corded silk fabric, made in a plain weave, but because of it’s semi-lustrous appearance, it can be mistaken for a satin weave. Quite luxurious. It’s still in use today for evening… Read More »

Serge

Part of the ‘Antique Fabrics‘ series, this fabric isn’t necessarily extinct, but it was more popular in the past than the present. Serge is a soft, durable twill-weave fabric. The pattern of the weave is very much like that of denim – steeply diagonal and reversible. In the 19th century, serge was a popular choice for military… Read More »