Category Archives: Definitions and Advice

Introduction to Fibers: Acetate

Acetate, like rayon, is a funky one. It’s sort of natural, but not really – it’s a manufactured fiber, like nylon and polyester, but derived from a natural source. Acetate is a cellulosic fiber. Cellulose – plant cells, usually derived from cotton or wood – are subjected to a chemical stew and the resultant goop is extruded as a filament. Acetate… Read More »

Introduction to Fibers: Rayon

Rayon, like acetate, is a funky one. It’s sort of natural, but not really – it’s a manufactured fiber, like nylon and polyester, but derived from a natural source. Rayon is a cellulosic fiber. Cellulose – plant cells, usually derived from cotton, wood or bamboo (increasingly popular) – are subjected to a chemical stew and the resultant goop is extruded as a… Read More »

The Walking Foot

This little guy is going to be your best friend if you’re trying to sewing any piled and/or slippery fabrics, such as velvet, or certain satins. The walking foot acts as an upper set of feed dogs, working in time with your machine. When using a walking foot, fabrics feed more evenly and are therefore… Read More »

The Rolling Foot

The rolling (or roller) foot is essential for coping with thick, bulky seams. The specific construction of the foot can vary according to your model of sewing machine, but the premise is the same throughout – a set of wheels or a roller mounted into a regular sewing foot. You might think those little wheels can’t… Read More »

Introduction to Garment Trims

Trimming – or trim – is any embellishment you put onto a costume. It doesn’t serve a structure function like a sleeve or a side panel. If you took it away, you won’t suddenly be half-naked. But trims can make or break a costume – especially if you’re doing late Victorian or sugar-fueled anime –… Read More »

How to Sew Slippery Fabrics

Satin, charmeuse, most linings, chiffon, and a whole host of other fabrics. What do they have in common? They like to slip and slide like they’ve been covered in Teflon. When your fabric slips about, you’ll get inaccurate edges while cutting, and wonky uneven seams when sewing, both of which are going to have unwanted… Read More »

How To Handle Fray-Happy Fabric

Organza, brocades, cheap taffetas. What do they have in common? They fray as soon as they’re cut. Either because of the twist of the fiber yarn, or because the fabric is woven whereby the weft fibers are “floating” above the warp to one degree or another, or simply because it’s a loose and lightweight weave,… Read More »

How to Sew Fabrics With Pile

  Velvet, velour, velveteen, corduroy and even terrycloth. What do these have in common? They’re fabrics with pile – that delightfully fuzzy surface. It’s a joy to see and touch, but it can present some real challenges to cut and sew. Addendum: The difference between nap and pile. When cutting it, you want to use lots… Read More »

How to Read a Sewing Pattern

You’ve decided on a project, you’ve got a budget set, now it’s time to hit the books – pattern books, that is. Online and at the sewing store, there are hundreds of sewing patterns waiting for you to browse through them and take them home. But how can you tell which pattern will work best… Read More »